The Northern Irish Coastline is as wild as it is beautiful, but the visitors centre for The Giants Causeway came as a complete suprise to me. Its glossy, linear blocks rising out of the green, grassy banks like a dark and brooding entrance to some mysterious land. Down on the shore a tour-guide held a group of visitors in the palm of his hand as he re-counted the tale of Finn McCool, sometimes whispering, sometimes shouting, waving and stomping to full effect. Waves and rock meet and clash at this place where giants walk. Us wee small humans no more than ants as we clamber in delight to admire their handi-work.